All Aboard

On our last day along the coast we walked over to Unawatuna, which is a beach with good beginner surfing waves. We had each taken 1 surf lesson previously and were keen to try it again. We walked onto the beach and in classic Rock-Awn style we chose the first surfer dude who approached us about lessons. We headed out to the break and got to it. Similarly to my first experience I was able to get up relatively easily and LOVED IT. As a typical non-water sport person, I can definitely say surfing is at the top of my list. At one point Rocky and I were both in the shallows and here’s how our interaction went:

  • Me (grinning ear to ear like an eager beaver), “This is so great!!!!!”
  • Rocky (person who loves being in water usually), “I fu$#&n hate this!!!!”

You know how they say that married couples start becoming like one another? Maybe after 7 Rock-Awns we are starting to morph into one another.

The next morning we were up bright and early to see about a bus to the town of Ella. We couldn’t find any solid info on a schedule but we had 3 anecdotal stories about a 6am bus. We were so jazzed when a bus came along, we identified that it was the one we were looking for, and we were able to do the mad rush on to get seats! We had to make 1 bus transfer and our aisle seat mate shepherded us to the next bus, which was adorned with a neon Lakshmi goddess. The excitement wore off after 7 hours of loud, hot, crowded, stuffy bus time, so when we scrambled off the bus we needed to regroup with a cold drink.

Ella is a town in the mountainous area of Sri Lanka so the climate is not so melty. We wandered around but were too chicken to cross under a bridge on the main highway with lots of traffic and no sidewalks.

We did a small hike to the 9 Arch Bridge. We were nervous to walk on the tracks and then realized that crazy people stay on the bridge even when the train is going by!

We also hiked up Little Adam’s peak for great views.

We visited the beautiful Mahamevnawa Monastery and had a great tour with a monk.

We finally braved walking under the tunnel without sidewalks en route to the Kinellan Tea Factory. Sri Lanka was historically known as Ceylon and one of its major exports is tea. The factory was sweltering inside, so hot that it has become a repeating choice in our ‘would you rather’ game (ie. Would you rather have to work in the tea factory every day or be a politician? Both of us answered the latter!). We tasted a few varieties and as Rocky made the joke that it was like Ted Lasso says, they all tasted like brown water.

Our accommodation in Ella was in the perfect location and had a beautiful garden area where we saw a mongoose, a grizzled giant squirrel, and numerous types of birds. Unfortunately on our first night we could hear something crawling around in our ceiling and we FREAKED OUT! Hilariously both of us assumed the ‘turtle position’ on the bed, as if that would protect us. We frantically knocked on the door of our host, who told us that it was just some really cute squirrels. Because they were reportedly ‘cute’ we calmed down, though each morning when we were woken up by them fighting/playing/mating/dancing on our thin particle board ceiling our ‘fight or flight’ kicked in.

This morning we boarded a scenic train to the city of Kandy. This was the #1 thing on both of our ‘must-do’ lists, and it did not disappoint. The 8 hour train didn’t feel like 8 hours, until the end when it definitely felt like 8 hours! It winds through tea plantations, forests, and villages, with views of temples and waterfalls.

It is an open air, open door train, which means that at every opportunity gringos are hanging out of the train for the perfect photo op… including us!

I don’t know how she did it, but Rocky booked us the cheapest 3rd class tickets and we somehow had the whole train car almost all to ourselves. Our train official was hard core about keeping the other people in their rightful carriages.

We were glad we ordered the ‘pile of rice’ lunch.

We had lots of fun in Kandy already, but I’ll save that for the next blog!

Rock-Awn 7.0 – Sweating in Sri Lanka

RockyB and I were excited to meet up for our 7th trip together and so far it has already been filled with adventures. We spent a couple of days in the capital city of Colombo, where we put in 30,000 steps per day exploring. Highlights included:

  • The Lotus tower
  • Buddhist temples, including one on the water and one with a massive Bodhi tree
  • The red and white mosque: our tour was led by the sweetest Muslim guy I could have imagined. We wished we could have done a recording of him singing a verse of the Quran. The mosque’s red and white colours and dome shapes are representative of a pomegranate, which is featured in many verses.
  • Figuring out the different transportation systems like tuk tuks and the bus!

For distance travel in Sri Lanka, trains are the way to go. We hopped a 2.5 hour train to the seaside city of Galle (pronounced Goal) and loved every second of it: tasting the foods being sold by hawkers, clapping along with a group of young people drumming and singing, and seeing the coastal views out of the open air windows and doors.

One of Galle’s main attractions is a walled fort town that has architecture from Dutch, Portuguese, and British colonial days. We walked around on an afternoon where the humidity was so high I felt like I could have taken a bite out of the air. In a Rock-Awn first we have been having to say ‘uncle’ and duck into air conditioned shops and cafes to cool down!

This morning we visited a sea turtle hatchery and recovery centre. They take in sea turtles that have been sick or injured, as well as protect eggs and babies. It was heartbreaking to see turtles that were sick from eating plastic, blind, had abscesses, or got caught in a boat motor. We had the chance to release some babies back to the ocean. I hope the little guys do ok out there.

After our time with the turtles we were walking along the beach and it was SO hot and SO beautiful that we did another Rock-Awn first… we stripped down to our undies and spent some time in the waves. The surf was rough and it was my first time getting sucked into the rip and pounded into the sand. When we got back to our hotel and into the shower I realized that I had about 3 cups of sand in my undies and another cup in my hair.

We’ve been tasting a lot of Sri Lankan foods and have had some hilarious ‘lost in translation’ moments along the way. I’m looking forward to more Rock-Awn moments!

South Side

Our final week of this holiday has been spent on the South Island of NZ. Queenstown has a Whistler/Banff resort-town kind of feel, with lots of adventure activities, jaw dropping scenery, and elevated prices! One day we got creative and compromised on our activity for the day: I got up early and hiked up to the Ben Lomond peak and while I was hiking down Rob took the gondola part way up the mountain to meet me for lunch.

The hike was difficult, mostly because of the huge elevation gain over a short time. The summit was totally worth the grind. I had clear views, not a breath of wind, and time to sit and enjoy the view.

Meanwhile Rob was having an adventure of his own on the gondola, including an epic green screen photoshoot. I don’t know what the white one is all about but I think there’s been a glitch.

We found a sports bar that was showing the 4 Nations Cup final. Even across the world the emotion of the game was palpable. The pub was filled to the brim with tense North Americans and we were happy to share celebratory high-fives with many Canadians. It felt very patriotic to read about friends in many other parts of the world who were also watching the big game. Unfortunately we had to leave after the 2nd period to catch a bus, so we were glued to the play-by-play as we rode through the postcard worthy scenery to Te Anau.

Te Anau is a village set in Fjordland National Park and is the start of 3 of New Zealand’s ‘Great Walks’. One day I’d love to return and do one or more of these hut-to-hut hikes. We had booked a day trip to the famous Milford Sound where we saw more waterfalls than we could count. Unfortunately the weather was quite misty which wasn’t great for photos, so you’ll just have to believe when we say how beautiful it was.

Lake Te Anau was a perfect setting to rent bikes and ride the lake loop.

We have one day left to relax before we start our long journey to Vancouver for a family visit. We have been reflecting on how lucky we have been to have such a fun adventure and miss this brutal Canadian winter. We can definitely see another visit to NZ in our future.

Middle Earth

Our last few remaining days on the Northern Island of New Zealand were spent in Hamilton, which has a few nearby attractions that are definite must sees. The first is the Waitomo Glowworm Caves which we made sure to visit on our drive up from Taupō. We had booked a tour as it was the only way to get to see the bioluminescent cave dwellers. We lucked out a bit because a big chunk of our tour group was delayed and had to reschedule which meant we had a much smaller group!

When we got near to the cave’s entrance, our guide knelt down by the creek and asked if we wanted to see the eels. As he did, a few eels started swimming right to him and he was handling them like they were domesticated. It was fascinating and creepy all at once. He then gave us the opportunity to feed them some Spam off of a popsicle stick. DawnO felt like she needed to give it a go and I was more than happy to take the pictures from a distance. She got to touch one and said it was slimier than she expected. That validated my decision to hang back.

Next up was the main event! We walked into the cave and once our eyes adjusted to the darkness we could see thousands of glow worms on the ceiling of the cave. Apparently they aren’t worms at all, but maggots. Our guide said that fact doesn’t help sell a lot of tickets so they stick to calling them glowworms instead. They are quite a long creature and just the tip of their tails glow. This light lures their prey into sticky threads that hang down from the cave. Once a bug flies into one of these threads, it’s dinner time!

We eventually made our way to a waterway where we took a raft deeper into the cave with the ceiling lit up with thousands of glowworms. Unfortunately we weren’t able to capture very good images as we would have required a tripod so I have found one from the web that shows what we experienced.

After our tour we continued to Hamilton and got settled in to our new accommodations. The next day we decided to tour Hamilton Gardens, another popular attraction. This was a large park and featured different gardens from around the world. We were both quite impressed with the accuracy of a lot of the countries. We actually felt like we were walking through India, Italy, and Japan. Most plants were authentic, but they did have a few fake ones so they could make it through the New Zealand winters. One of the more fun gardens was the ‘surreal garden’ which drew its inspiration from Alice in Wonderland.

Last on our attractions checklist was a big one for me. We booked ourselves a tour of Hobbiton from the Lord of the Rings and Hobbit movies.

You’ll have to excuse DawnO’s lack of enthusiasm in the above picture. You see we have a bit of history with the Lord of the Rings films. She has trauma from when I force fed her the Extended editions of these movies in the early days of our relationship. She has actually said the following words when asked if she wants to watch a LOTR film, “I would rather jump into Mt Doom and end myself.” So now, if ever I plan a date night that I’m afraid might be a bit lame I’ll give her a choice between that or a movie night featuring Lord of the Rings. It always makes the lame option look a bit more appealing. Anyway, back to Middle Earth…

Hobbiton was originally build in 1999 out of cheap movie set materials and was never meant to be a permanent fixture in the NZ countryside. Once the filming of the first trilogy was completed, the land was returned to its natural hobbitless state. When they rebuilt Hobbiton for the Hobbit trilogy, they realized that they had an opportunity to make some serious tourist dollars so they made the town exactly as before, but with quality materials. They have a full time staff gardening and manicuring the set which pumps hundreds of tourists through a day. Walking through it was really quite cool. I estimate we saw around 30-40 hobbit holes which were just exteriors. The hobbit holes were built to different scales to achieve the forced perspective trickery in the films. (For more information I suggest you watch the 300 million hours of behind the scenes docs that come with the extended editions of the original trilogy. Your significant other will love it).

Bag End

Next we got to go into a hobbit hole which was a relatively new attraction. The interior shots in the movies were not done on this set but they built movie realistic interiors to 2 of their holes. It really added to the tour to get to see the interior.

Lastly we all headed over the bridge past the mill to the Green Dragon Inn for an ale, which was very tasty!

All-in-all, DawnO was happy with the tour. She was even happier we didn’t pay for the extended edition.

Bikes and Hikes

We left Cook’s Beach on a perfect weather day so took advantage by making some stops along our road trip. First one was at a macadamia orchard with great views of the bay.

At our lunch stop we had a little debate. Rob thought that the table beside the car would be adequate:

I was stating the case for lunch with a view, which also included a 6 minute hike straight up a series of staircases. I’m taking a poll: which spot would you pick?

Once we had gone up it seemed crazy not to hike up another 7 minutes for the best views! This is what poor RobO has to deal with.

Our stay for the next few nights was on a horse farm just outside of Te Aroha. We really enjoyed getting to know our new horsey friends.

NZ has a series of Great Rides, which are multi-day cycling journeys. We rented bikes and did 1 day of the Hauraki trail which took us through farmland, a 1.1km tunnel, bridges, and rainforest.

We locked the bikes and explored the Karangahake Gorge which included the Windows Hike, a freaky hike through old, dark gold mining tunnels where the only light was from ‘windows’ to the gorge.

We loved our lunch stop at a waterfall.

The next day RobO did some work on his upcoming musical (shameless plug for 9 to 5, showing in Medicine Hat late April), while I decided to hike up the Te Aroha mountain. The trail map listed it as ‘difficult’ but I was quite cavalier about how hard it could be. I had some quivering legs by the time I met Rob at a coffee shop!

Te Aroha has horse races 7 times per year and one happened to be during our stay. Our hosts told us that the races started at noon so we were there at quarter to, only to realize that the first one was at 2:01. No biggie – we watched the set up of all of the components and settled into our front row seats.

We watched a couple of races and we didn’t officially bet, but I won a 12 minute massage from RobO – 4 minutes per race that my chosen horse edged out his. But then we saw a horse get injured and have to be hauled into a horse ambulance, which put a damper on our excitement. So that was enough time at the races for us.

We drove further south to a pretty lakeside town called Taupo. One of the things that has been on the bucket list for a long time is to hike the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, which is a world heritage site and is heralded as New Zealand’s best day hike. It is a point to point hike so we were up early to drive to the end, park our car, and ride the shuttle to the start. I loved that the hike goes through 4 different types of landscape over it’s 20km route.

The first section felt like we were walking on another planet and included great views of Mount Tongariro, which any Lord of the Rings geeks out there would recognize as Mordor’s Mt. Doom.

As we hiked up and over the red crater we had our first glimpses of the jewel coloured alpine lakes.

On the way to our lunch spot at the blue lake the views looking back took our breath away.

The next section showed classic views over expansive fields and lakes with the odd steaming hot spring.

Finally we reached the only shaded area, the final 4km descent through the rainforest. By that point it was a bit of a slog, so there’s only 1 picture to prove how pretty it actually was. This hike definitely exceeded my expectations and Rob rated it as one of his top 3 favourite hikes!

After long showers, we refueled at BurgerFuel, an NZ gourmet burger chain. They give out a ‘doofer’ which is a little cardboard burger holder that contains all of your fixings while you chow down. We were skeptical at the start but RobO fully endorses it’s usefulness. I was too tired to notice that it was upside down!

We have a few more days of adventure on the north island. Can’t wait!

Diggin’ a Hole

On my 47th birthday we left Australia and touched down in Auckland, New Zealand. This happens to be the 47th country I have visited! New Zealand is one of the few countries I have had on my bucket list since the beginning of our travels. I have heard it said that it is like a miniature version of Canada with its vast array of picturesque landscapes. If you have seen any of the Lord of the Rings movies you’ve seen what NZ has to offer.

Auckland didn’t disappoint. We were both quite taken with this laidback city. With most large international cities it’s usually a guarantee that at least one if not all five of your senses will be violated. I think this is one of the few cities to not do that. In fact, DawnO commented right away how lovely the air smelled. Happy birthday to me.

One of the things I like to do on my big day is get myself my free Starbucks drink (last talked about in our Seattle blog). I figured it wouldn’t work over here but DawnO convinced me to at least ask the question. As I feared, the answer was “No,” but was then followed up with “but I can just make you a free drink anyway. What would you like?” Points to Auckland.

We stayed at a lovely AirBnB that was in a kitschy neighbourhood and we were a block from a metro station so we explored near and far. Highlights include hiking up to one of the 53 dormant volcanoes in and around the city, walking around the main harbour, and dining at the Indian/Mexican fusion restaurant in our area for dinner.

Our last full day in Auckland was Waitangi Day, which is New Zealand’s annual national celebration. We made sure to attend one of the many festivals taking place in parks across the city. Though it wasn’t as flashy as the Australia Day celebration we attended in Sydney, it was still great to enjoy some live music outdoors.

We have rented a car and started our journey across the northern island of NZ, first stopping in Cooks Beach on the Coromandel Peninsula. This small village is close to some must-visit destinations including Cathedral Cove. This morning we got up early to view the sunrise and beat the crowds to the beach. It was definitely worth the 5:50am wake-up call.

After the throngs of people started showing up we headed to the next must-see destination ready to dig a hole in the beach! Hot Water Beach is the spot to go if you’re looking to soak in a natural hot tub. All you need to do is start digging in the sand where natural hot springs will seep their way through the sand to fill it. Be careful though, if you pick the wrong spot, you could burn yourself in the 64C water. We spent a lot of time walking through the maze of holes and people digging until we finally found the “Goldilocks” spot that we could lay in.

Tomorrow we pack up our rental car and continue exploring the north island. I can’t wait to see what else NZ has in store.

Connections

The last leg of our Oz travels took us to Brisbane and the Queensland area. We weren’t drawn here for any particular tourist sights, but more to see some old friends. We were so lucky to be able to stay with our friend Chris and his family. We met Chris 18 years ago when we were all babies volunteering in Guyana. We didn’t consciously plan for this stop to be at our midway point in our travels, but in hindsight it was a real refresher to be in a family home with a routine, full kitchen, and WASHING MACHINE!

We took their local recommendations for some sightseeing in Brisbane, which has an incredible transit system that includes a Sea Cat with stops all along the impressively developed river area.

One morning Chris took us on an urban mountain walk up to a cafe. We loved hearing the calls and laughing of the kookaburras.

One of the only things on my ‘must do’ list was to go for a run with Chris, and we completed this in spades! I ran my first ParkRun 5km, then the next day did a 15.9km trail race. It was great to connect with the local running community.

We had a day with our friend Trina who moved here with her family 11 years ago. She took us to sites along the Gold Coast, including Surfer’s Paradise and the hinterland area of Tamborine Mountain. Thanks Trina for a fabulous day!

It seems everyone wants to hear about snakes and spiders in Australia, and we can report that we saw 2 different snakes and quite a few huge spiders in our travels here, none of which cared to interact with us.

I’ll leave you with a few pictures of the sights of Brisbane, and a family pic from last night when Chris and Sophiaan planned a birthday celebration for RobO. We hope that one day we can reciprocate the warm hospitality.

We are at the airport, ready for an adventure to a new country… New Zealand!

Tassie and Sydney

This week found us on the island of Tasmania, the south eastern island off of mainland Australia. The first order of business was to recall my Scottish lessons of driving on the left hand side of the road. This time there was no stick shift so it would have been a walk in the park. Well, I don’t know if it was just my KIA, or all Australian vehicles, but I immediately found out that the signal light lever and windshield wiper lever are on the opposite sides. As I pulled away from the curb the wipers were awkwardly squealing over the driest pane of glass in the southern hemisphere. This manoeuvre is rumoured to be known as a “Canadian Salute”. I’m glad I can contribute to the stereotype.

Regardless, we were off to Swansea, a small seaside town that had a lot of charm, beautiful beaches and was near Freycinet National Park which is home to Wineglass Bay, which DawnO was excited to hike.

Wineglass Bay was a scenic 4 hour trek that was definitely worth the steps.

We made our way back to Hobart to return our car, but not before I found an iced coffee truck to refuel my weary bones.

We spent a couple of days in the Tasmanian capital, Hobart, and both found we were reminded of Victoria, BC. It is a laidback, artsy city that had a really relaxing vibe to it. Our first night found us at a park where we enjoyed some live music and had our pick of over a dozen local food tents. We even ran into someone we met in Mexico during our day of the dead trip last October. What a small world.

We left Tassie on a jet plane bound for Sydney. Little did we know that it happened to be Australia Day. Imagine our surprise when I looked up “things to do tonight” and a national party was about to be unfolding 3 metro stops away from our hotel.

They were filming a national celebration at the Opera House going out live across the country with bands, aerial displays and fireworks. They even had choreographed water cannons going off in the bay. We were in the middle of it all watching on one of the several big screens they had showing the broadcast. It was quite a spectacle.

The next morning we decided to do a walking tour of the area which included walking across the Sydney Harbour Bridge. In the afternoon, we took a ferry to Manly Wharf which meant would pass by the Opera House and see it from a different angle.

Today was forecasted to be 39 degrees so we decided to head to Bondi beach to soak up the sun and jump in the South Pacific waters.

Tomorrow we head to Brisbane where we will get to reconnect with a friend who volunteered with us way back when we lived in Guyana!

Break Point and Point Break

We’ve had just over a week in Melbourne (pronounced ‘Malbun’ here) and have loved every second of it. We stayed just south of the city centre in an hip area called St Kilda. It was great to jog along the beach some mornings and spend an evening enjoying the sunset views from the pier.

Our main reason for coming here at this time was to go to the Australian Open tennis grand slam.

For 4 days we were ‘eat, sleep, tennis, repeat’. For the sake of our aging memories I’ll list the matches that we attended:

  • Monday:
    • Tiafoe def. Rinderknech 7-6, 6-3, 4-6, 6-7, 6-3
    • Bencic def. Ostapenko 6-3, 7-6
    • Kostyuk def. Hibino 3-6, 6-3, 6-1
    • Passaro def. Dimitrov 7-5, 2-1 Ret.
  • Tuesday:
    • Raducanu def. Alexandrova 7-6, 7-6
    • Monfils def. Mpetshi Perricard 7-6, 6-3, 6-7, 6-7, 6-4
    • Shapovalov def. Bautista Agut 3-6, 6-4, 6-4, 7-6
  • Wednesday:
    • Machac def. Opelka 3-6, 7-6, 6-7, 7-6, 6-4
    • Alcaraz def. Nishioka 6-0, 6-1, 6-4
    • Fernandez def. Bucsa 3-6, 6-4, 6-4
  • Saturday:
    • Swiatek def. Raducanu 6-1, 6-0
    • de Minaur def. Cerundolo 5-7, 7-6, 6-3, 6-3
    • Svitolina def. Paolini 2-6, 6-4, 6-0 (watched on the screen in the grounds)

Some highlights/stories from our time at the AO:

  • We sat right beside the coaching boxes for most of the matches during the first 2 days. It was really interesting to see the interactions between the players and their teams. During the Monfils match we were surrounded by Monfils fans but sitting beside the other guy’s box. At one point his agent had tried to tell a fan to stop cheering so loud which, no surprise, just fuelled the loud fan’s fire.
  • We were sooo hot in the direct sun during that 5 hour match but couldn’t bear to miss any of it. Eventually we snagged 1 seat in the shade and traded spots every few games to get some relief.
  • We sat behind some Raducanu superfans who wore shirts spelling out the letters of her name. Seeing their rollercoaster of emotions during the close match was very entertaining.

In between the tennis action we took a day tour to the Great Ocean Road. The morning started out overcast but burned off for beautiful blue skies.

We were lucky to see koalas and kangaroos in the wild.

In the afternoon the road hugged the coastline which was featured in the movie Point Break.

One afternoon we followed a walking tour of the downtown core and saw all of their historic arcade shopping areas. It is true that the coffee culture in Melbourne is on point. We finished the afternoon (of course) watching more tennis at a downtown big screen.

Today we met a friend of our friend Messele from home. Tebeje and Messele organize a grassroots charity that funds Ethiopian children to go to school. We love hearing about their work and love that 100% of the money goes to the cause. If you are looking for a spot to give a meaningful donation we can connect you. Tebeje showed us around an Ethiopian Epiphany festival and treated us to lunch and coffee. It was so nice to meet him and hear more about the city from a local.

Now we’re having a couple of relaxed days in a flat with a pool before we head south to Tasmania. No doubt we’ll continue to be looking at tennis updates along the way. After this immersion we are sure ready for our Med Hat tennis season to start up!

Singapore Swing plus 1

Fun fact: Before we left Canada 4 days ago, DawnO had visited 10 more countries than I have. However, I have gained some ground and can proudly say that visiting Singapore cuts that number down to 9!

We have begun a 2 month travel extravaganza that will see the bulk of our time split between Australia and New Zealand. But first, we made a quick stopover in Singapore so DawnO could show me a country she thought I would really enjoy. “Asia-lite” she called it. Basically it boasts all the benefits of Asia but adopts a lot of western comforts that I definitely appreciate while traveling. For example, no squat toilets.

After we landed we made our way by subway to our neighbourhood. A sign on posted in the train car catches my eye.

The fact that the authorities share my disdain for Durian means we are off to a good start, Singapore.

If you read DawnO’s blog from when she was here on her own this might look a bit familiar. She took me to all the sites she enjoyed, and we even stayed in the same capsule hotel in Chinatown, only this time we got a capsule big enough for 2.

Our first day included a walk around our area to get our bearings and more importantly, conquer our jet lag. We found a great place to eat called the Maxwell Hawker Centre which checked off the 3 things we look for when deciding where to eat: Reasonable prices, steaming food, and packed with locals.

I also got my first glimpse of the Marina Bay Sands hotel and the Supertree Grove at the Gardens by the Bay.

The next 2 nights were spent at the Gardens where we toured the vast grounds and watched the trees come to life with lights.

All-in-all DawnO was right. I am definitely a fan of Singapore!

We are about to fly to Australia, but first we are waiting at the Singapore airport which has a supermall attached to it with an indoor waterfall, movie theatre and pool area. What a country!