Fiji Time

To get to our next destination we took a loooong boat ride up to the Yasawa Islands. As we dropped off excited tourists at exotic looking resorts with white sand beaches, I couldn’t help but feel some anxious thoughts about the homestay accommodation that I had booked for us. The reviews said that it was quite rustic, with spotty solar electricity, cold water showers, and an estuary rather than a white sand beach.

Our house

It didn’t take long for me to remember why we like these types of travel experiences and give some reinforcement for me to trust my gut when booking. We had a variety of adventures and experiences, many of which we would not have had if we had chosen the resort accommodations.

We arrived at the same time as a NZ/Fijian couple and met other travellers from Denmark, Argentina, and Belgium. On the first night we sat in our homestay family’s living area to watch a Fijian rugby match on TV (go Drua, although they lost). We drank Kava, which is a drink that tastes a bit like earth. Fijians drink it during ceremonies and with friends and it has a calming effect. RobO said he felt a bit of a tongue tingle but we had minimal effects as our servings were ‘low tide’, meaning that the coconut bowl was only about half full.

We hiked up to the rock at the top the hill behind our house to see the views. It was the third time in our travels that a dog has led us along a hike.

The path up

We kayaked across the bay and found our own private white sand beach.

During low tide we could walk out hundreds of meters and we learned how to dig for qeqe (pronounced ghinghy), which is a type of clam.

The best part was eating our catch with coconut cream, lime, and chilies.

We boated over to the Blue Lagoon for an afternoon of snorkeling and beach time. Our rating was that the snorkeling was second only to the Maldives. I was even lucky enough to see an octopus.

For dinner one night we had a Lovo, which is a Fijian feast that is cooked via hot stones underground. We learned how to husk coconuts, scrape out the meat, and squeeze it out to get the coconut cream. That, mixed with a little onion and type of spinach and put in a half a coconut was my favourite dish.

The husking station

My favourite activity was learning to spearfish. We boated to a beautiful snorkeling location and watched 2 Fijians free dive down and use a kind of slingshot spear to catch the fish. None of the tourists were successful in the hunt. It was a little bit sad to see them spearing all of the beautiful colourful fish that we enjoy watching when snorkeling.

We then went back to the Blue Lagoon for a fish fry on the beach. The fish were cooked over the fire and served in a broth of salt water, lime, and chilies.

One of the major benefits of the homestay was getting to know our Fijian family. We definitely will never forget Nancy, the 1 year old who looks like she is straight out of a Pixar film. She would stagger around, always barefoot, wreaking havoc on the 3 cats and Beast the dog. She was always sandy, sticky, or wet and always wanting a hug or snuggle.

One other adventure of the homestay were the critters! Every night on our way to our little house we would have to navigate groupings of large toads that were really creepy to walk through in the dark. On the first night there were 11 gathered outside our front step!

About as big as my fist

We liked the geckos that we saw in our house, but we needed help to deal with Steve, the biggest spider that I’ve ever seen in my bedroom.

The photo does not show the true scale of Steve!

We took the boat back to the main island and wheeled up to our final accommodation in a local minibus! Here are some parting shots from the Yasawas.

Welcome home

We have added our 6th continent to our travels. Fiji greeted us with multiple people saying “welcome home!” In a way it did feel like a bit of a homecoming as we have been reminded of our time living in Guyana. This island in the South Pacific has a very familiar West Indies feel to it from the friendly people, the cuisine and the amazing weather.

We are currently staying in Nadi at a lovely hotel that has a pool and a tennis court. We brought our racquets and are getting in shape for the upcoming tennis season. We’ve also figured out the local bus system which has allowed us to check out a free football tournament complete with some delicious curries! There had been some rain leading up to the tournament so it was a bit of a slog through the mud.

The next day we headed back to the tournament and watched the finals, I believe team muddy won. The next stop was to the Hindu temple to pay our respects to Ganesh.

On day 3 we decided to make our way to the Sabeto Mud Pool & Hot Spring for our own mud bath. We ventured there the unconventional way. We took the local bus as close as we could get and hiked in. Luckily a local driver took pity on us, picked us up along the way and delivered us to our destination. When we arrived we were met by Buna, who directed the rest of our mud bath experience. She told us what to do, when to do it, and at times, what pace we were to do it at. She confiscated my phone and documented everything, no matter how cheesy. Note: Buna had about 5 phones in her hand at any given moment and would give orders to all the tourists, and somehow managed to use the right phone with the right people. It was very impressive. Behold! Buna’s vision…

Next we got a ride to the Garden of the Sleeping Giant, which was a couple of kilometres back down the road. This garden features many exotic plants and flowers including orchids. There was also a trek out to a lookout point which offered a panoramic view of the island.

We have a couple more days here before we ship off to a home-stay on the Yasawa Islands.

Mudder and Daughter

How lucky am I to be able to spend a week travelling with my mom (Dixie).

We started off with a couple of days in the US capital of Washington DC. Neither of us know very much about US politics and history, so I was glad that we bought an audio walking tour to tell us what was what. In fact, at one point we had a rather hilarious debate with me thinking that the Lincoln memorial was the White House and Dixie thinking that it wasn’t because the White House has a dome on the top (it doesn’t).

Audio tour nerds

Washington Monument

Lincoln Memorial and the reflecting pool

Jefferson Memorial

The Secret Service were in high gear right beside the White House with a whole street blocked off. Someone special must have been in town.

Capital building

We knew there was a chance that the cherry blossoms would be in bloom, but we really lucked out by being there on the day the media announced it to be ‘peak bloom’.

The tulip trees were magnificent

Tidal Basin

We popped in to the Renwick Gallery, one of the Smithsonian Museums and enjoyed some art that foreshadowed some of the artists whose work we would see again later in the trip.

Day 2 we started out with a great free tour of the JFK Performing Arts Centre.

There are tons of incredible art donated from different countries, including this chandelier in the opera house.

We meandered around the historic Georgetown neighbourhood and stopped at a coffee shop to taste the ‘limited time’ Cherry Blossom Latte!

Church at Georgetown University

I’d never seen a Weeping Cherry Blossom before

We capped off our DC adventure with Southern food at the Union market. Étoufeé is a spicy shrimp and rice dish that was delicious!

After a train ride to Richmond, Virginia we started the main event! We spent the next 4 days at the National Council on Education for the Ceramic Arts, which is the largest clay conference in the world! At the opening ceremonies they said that over 6000 people were registered. We listened to clay talks, watched demos, visited galleries, and got lots of free glaze samples from the huge Resource Hall. Our heads are exploding with inspiration!

The resource fair where we could see and buy everything clay!

Last year I had done a workshop at our local pottery studio about body mechanics and injury prevention/management during pottery. A great pottery friend had encouraged me to bring it to a larger audience, so I applied to do it at NCECA. Never in a million years did I think I would be accepted, but in August I found out that I was! Friday morning I did my session, called ‘Can My Body Do This Forever?’. There were at least 500 people in attendance and so many questions at the end that the sound tech had to get the hook to get me off the stage! I am very proud of this experience.

Some of my favourite parts of the conference were the little things:

  • There was a gum-ball machine filled with tiny clay toys made by 50 different artists.
  • There was a fundraiser cup sale where all registrants of the conference were encouraged to bring a cup to sell. There were 1550 cups, which resulted in over $67,000 towards scholarships. I could have spent hours looking at all of the different submissions.

Can you spot the Dawn and Dixie cups?

  • Having dinner with a pottery friend who used to work at Medalta and has now moved to Calgary.

We didn’t have much time for tourist stuff outside of the conference, but enjoyed learning the *free* Richmond bus system and eating good food.

I’m wishing I had some days to get muddy at the studio with my new ideas and glaze samples, but next weekend Rob and I are jumping on another plane, this time to Fiji. I guess my ideas will have the chance to percolate while I enjoy some sun and beach time.

Stories from Seattle

For years DawnO and I have each planned a date night for the other once a month. Every couple of years or so, we step it up and plan something a bit more extravagant. I was long overdue to plan something so I consulted our ever-growing bucket list for some inspiration. DawnO is a big fan of the Moth podcast and has wanted to attend one of their storytelling events. After doing some research, I had decided on Seattle as there was an upcoming Moth event that just happened to fall on my birthday weekend! Tickets were purchased, reservations were made, and bags were packed. DawnO knew about everything except one thing. When we arrived to our dinner before the Moth, we were joined by RockyB and B-Rod, who spent the next couple of days with us!

Surprise guests
The Moth
Bucket list

The next day we made our way to Pike Place Market and then met up with our friends at pier 55 to embark on a harbour cruise.

Next up was a visit to the Space Needle, but first we passed through the alley where the gum wall is located.

Afterwards we strolled through the nearby Chiluly Garden exhibit which had an impressive display of glassworks.

The next day DawnO and I headed to the fancy Starbucks Reserve to see if I could cash in my free birthday drink. Now if you have ever felt intimidated ordering your coffee in a regular Starbucks, I can completely understand. It’s like you need to learn a new language just to get some steaming bean water. I had heard that the Starbucks Reserve had exclusive blends and drinks, and that the building itself was quite venti (that’s “large” to the layman). However I had been preparing for years for this. I knew exactly how to order in Starbuckian, how to have my app ready to scan and where to stand and scroll through my phone while I waited for my extra-hot latte.

As it turns out, we had walked into a Starbucks that had evolved from the grocery store Starbucks that I knew. They were so exclusive that my usual drink wasn’t even an option. Venti? What a tall-minded fool I was. They served their drinks in ceramic mugs. Small, medium and large, I believe they called them. Free Birthday drink? Get out of here with your coupons you simpleton! In fact, take this beeper, find a table and we’ll buzz you when your drinks are ready, Ron. At least some things haven’t changed.

As for the coffee, it was actually quite delicious.

Once we finished our drinks we made our way to the Seattle Aquarium to see the local sea creatures and then finished off our site seeing tour at the MoPop museum.

For my birthday supper we met up with BRod (RockyB had to leave us a day early) at a great Thai restaurant near our place. I can’t believe it took me so long to plan this date weekend and I’ll be sure to plan the next one soon!

RockyB has also blogged about their experience with us here:

Birthday Bucket

Anyone who knows me well will know that I love being on an adventure for my birthday and this year was no exception.

I took the whole week off and started out with a 3 day ‘Hike our Brains Out’ trip to Canmore with a friend. We lucked out with 3 blue sky days. We chose 1 hike in Kananaskis, 1 in Banff, and 1 in Yoho, so the terrains were different and all beautiful. After a couple of almost 10 hour days on trail I would say we succeeded in our goal!

After a car day to pick up RobO in Medicine Hat it was back to Calgary again to fly to San Francisco. I used the Turo car share app to rent us a Mini Cooper we named Timmy and we hit the road to Napa.

We have had ‘Go to a Chris Isaak concert’ on the bucket list for upwards of 10 years. When I saw he was playing Napa on my birthday I took it as a sign. After a morning run we started the day with a wine and chocolate tasting (yum!) followed by paella for 2 for dinner.

In the lineup to get into the concert the security guard told RobO that signs were not allowed. Good thing I could fold them up to fit into my pockets! The result: a birthday shoutout during a song. The concert was definitely worth a bucket list check!

The next morning I had set us up for a ‘Drills and Play’ tennis session at the fancy Napa club. It was great. We polished off some chilequiles for post tennis carbs and headed back over the Bay bridge for the trip home.

Last event of this birthday week is a wedding in Calgary. 1 week, 3 different adventures = success!

European Vacation

After spending 2 weeks reading DawnO’s blogs and slaving away at home I decided to hop on a plane and meet her in Venice, Italy. We were not the only Olsons on the trip as we also met up with my parents and sister. This was originally planned as a happy-70th-birthday trip to both my parents that amalgamated into a happy 50th anniversary trip due to the world shutting down for 2 years. Though it wasn’t the best weather, we still managed to get a bit of sun while we wound through the skinny Venetian streets.

After spending a couple of days with the family, DawnO and I took a boat to a couple of nearby islands. Murano was our first stop. It is known for its beautiful glass work. We managed to tour one of the local artists and learned how he created his signature style of glassware. The next stop was the island of Burano which produces lace. It also has some charming houses all painted in vibrant colours which was ideal for taking pictures.

While we were on the islands, my parents checked something off their bucket list. They got to take a gondola ride through the canals of Venice:


One of the stops on our list was a canal where you could see a Banksy painting!

Tomorrow we will say “Ciao” to my parents and sister as they continued their travels through Italy for another 3 weeks.

Before we return to Canada we will get to say “Hoi” to our good friend Jente in Amsterdam as we spend one night in the Netherlands during our layover.

Desert Life

When we arrived to Tunisia we really didn’t have much booked – just our first couple of nights of accommodation and a couple of nights near the end. We were the most excited about the end one because it was in a cave at the top of a mountain!
The Berber people from long ago built these dwellings to help protect themselves and their grain from raiders. Most of them are crumbling but a few have been restored, including ours which has been converted into a little hotel.

Difficult to spot from the road below

We were shown to our room, which amazingly stays cool in the heat and warm in the cold. I’m surprised that RockyB didn’t roast me more in her blog (https://www.delafrijoles.com/2023/05/from-stormy-seas-to-magical-mountains/) because I still give her a hard time over Rock-Awn 4.0 when she booked a hotel room that didn’t have a bathroom door. This cave room took it to another level because it had a shower at the foot of our beds! One night we laughed so hard because RockyB was showering while I was laying in my bed reading my book.

When we arrived it was a little weird and I was disappointed by some poor communication, so we weren’t sure that we were going to stay the full time. Our host made some adjustments, but I think the true turning point was meeting the only 2 other guests staying there. This Argentinian and Kazakhstan couple who live in the US had a car and were also touring the area. I was really proud of myself for getting the courage to step outside of my comfort zone and ask them if we could hang with them the next day. They were very welcoming and we all had a great time exploring the nearby sights.

We drove to Tatouine (the name inspired the Tatooine from Star Wars) and from there our friend drove this tiny rental car up a very rustic road to our first sight.

From afar Ksar Tounket didn’t look like much, but as we walked up to it our jaws dropped.

We then drove to Chenini village, which is a much larger village built into the side of a mountain, including a striking white mosque.

On our 2nd day at the cave hotel we hired a local villager to take us on a sunset hike. I think this was one of my highlights of the whole trip. Aymen taught us about all of the different herbs and spices along the trail. We hiked to some of the oldest Berber villages in the area and watched the sunset from the top vantage point.

I’ll leave you with more of the views from our epic ksar accommodation. We’ve now made our way back to Tunis and this Rock-Awn 6.0 adventure will come to an end. It definitely won’t be the last Rock-Awn instalment!!! Tomorrow I fly to Venice to meet RobO and family, so stay tuned for some robodawno adventures.

In a galaxy far, far away

Before coming to Tunisia one of the only things that I knew about it is that it was used for many filming locations for the Star Wars films. Even though I am not a Star Wars geek, it was obvious that we would try to see some of the sites. It surprised me how genuinely excited I felt to be at them. I think especially because there is zero fanfare about them by the Tunisian people. These crumbling, garbage collecting sites are just places that the people walk by each day but with some upkeep and tourism marketing they could be goldmines!

The first that we visited was the Mos Eisley cantina from Episode IV. Can’t you just hear the music playing?

We walked about 3kms up the coast to Amghar Mosque, which was Obi-Wan’s house in Episode IV.

When we got off the bus in Medenine we were only about 1 block away from Anakin’s hovel from Episode I.

We found that right around the times that we were at these sites something special happened, like we walked to the road and the exact bus that we needed was just driving by, or that we were standing right by a perfect little coffee shop with wifi. I have to think the force was strong with us at these places.

We’ve moved to the mountains now. Spoiler alert… the next post is going to be a gooder!

In the Djerbahood

Our first Rock-Awn all inclusive experience was (not surprisingly) not our favourite accommodation experience. In defence of the Hari Club Beach Resort, we didn’t have very nice weather, so we took a pass on appreciating the pools and amenities in gale force winds. I think for us there is a lot of travel joy in trying local foods from local restaurants, which is quite different than the resort buffet experience. This morning we did have our very best activity there, which was a hammam and gommage. Picture the Rock-Awns enjoying a sauna and then a scrub down.

During our days on the island we learned the island bus system and one day took it to a community with one of Tunisia’s oldest synagogues. When we met the government representative the other day he was proud to tell us that Djerba is very accepting of all religions and thus has quite a few Jewish people on the island. He said that this synagogue is a place that many people visit as a pilgrimage.

We enjoyed wandering around an area called Djerbahood, where numerous mural artists painted works throughout the small alleyways in the area.

We also visited a couple of famous film sites, but stay tuned for a future blog for those pics. Today we’re moving to the desert, to an accommodation with a lot of anticipation. May the force be with us!

Gems

Our time in Tunisia has continued to surpass our expectations, mostly because of our interactions with Tunisians. We took a train to the industrial city of Sfax. It’s not a big tourist destination, but we used it as a jumping off point to visit El Jem, which is one of the best preserved Roman amphitheatres in the world. What a gem it was. Of course we concluded our visit with the ‘tourist tax’ camel ride.

In Sfax we stayed in one of my favourite AirBnB experiences in the world thus far. Mohamed and his family hosted us in their home. We were surprised when they cooked breakfasts and dinners for us and how much time we spent talking over tea and coffee. It was a true cultural exchange and a connection that can be difficult to achieve in a short time in a different country. We talked about life goals and challenges and could see how alike we are, despite completely different lives. If you ever come to Tunisia let me know and I will connect you with this gem of an AirBnB. We were delighted when before we left Mohamed agreed to try one of RockyB’s classic ‘jump shots’.

We said goodbye to Mohamed and his family and headed to Djerba, which is an island off the coast of Tunisia. We opted to take a mini-bus, which was a pretty fun system to figure out. We paid for a ticket and found the corresponding van, then waited about an hour for it to fill with passengers so we could set off.

Almost every time I looked out the front window of the van I could see the driver giving me what I perceived to be the stink eye.

We passed by hours and hours of olive trees.

We saw a sign for camels crossing, then actually saw some camels crossing!

When we stopped at a gas station, I asked 2 of our bus mates who spoke some English if the driver didn’t like us. They said that no, in fact he was quite chuffed that he had 2 Canadians on board. After that we had a couple of interactions where he told us, through gestures and broken French, that he wished that we could communicate but felt that we were still able to get our points across. He even made 2 extra stops to try to buy a new traditional cd for us to listen to, much to the annoyance of the other passengers.

Another gem of a story: One of our fellow passengers also chatted with us at a rest stop and let us know that he is the member of parliament from Djerba Island. He was proud to be the youngest member of parliament and told us that he will be the president of Tunisia one day. When we got to the ferry terminal he decided to use his pull to get us to the front of the line. It took so much time that 2 of our passengers bailed and opted to walk on to the ferry, but he indeed succeeded and our little bus was first on the ferry for the next crossing!

Now on Djerba Island we’ve done a Rock-Awn 1st… we’re staying at an all-inclusive resort. Hopefully our gem experiences will continue.