Singapore Swing

I spend 2.5 days with Raman’s family. It’s a nice time to observe the typical day to day activities in an Indian village. The family communicates with me through food, photo albums, and the occasional translation from Gagan, Raman’s brother. As is often the case when there’s a language barrier, I seem to be a step behind most of the time. For example, on my last evening I accept delicious dinner, seconds, and dessert from Raman’s Mom, then about an hour later I’m served a special meal by Auntie next door.


One day Raman’s Dad and Gagan drive me to a mountain temple. There is a huge tree, it’s branches filled with red fabric. Gagan tells me that you tie on a thread and make a wish, then when it comes true you return and untie one. He has untied 1 and tied 2 today.

Serendipitously I am leaving on the same flight as an Uncle. On the way to the airport we meet Raman and Gurvinder for a goodbye, then visit the Golden Temple in Amritsar. This is the central religious site for the Sikh faith and they feed a meal to about 1 million visitors per day. It would be a peaceful place to sit for a couple of hours.
I am immensely grateful to Raman and her family for their generosity.

After a red eye flight I arrive in Singapore. My first impression is that it is clean and modern. RobO still teases me about our time in Lima, Peru when I experienced reverse culture shock (They were walking dogs on leashes! Ermegerd!) and I can feel those same feelings bubbling up. There’s no honking, people use crosswalks, and there’s toilet paper in every bathroom. I see dogs on leashes, and raise it with people jogging on groomed riverside paths. Am I still in Asia? I’m ok with it though. It’s a nice reprieve, especially knowing I’ll be back in the chaos of Vietnam in 36 hours.

Naturally, I’m drawn to the colours and vibes of Chinatown and Little India. I pause and breathe in temples and mosques, snap photos of street art, and sample foodie paradise.


Late afternoon I settle in at Gardens by the Bay, one of the main attractions. It does not disappoint. Imagine the Bellagio Fountains meet Avatar.


People often ask me what is on our bucket list but it’s really too long and diverse to summarize. At night I check off one of the weirder items on the list: sleep in a capsule hotel. Of course, I pick the most spaceship-like one I can find. It’s really just a glorified bunk bed that’s more difficult to get into, but I like the feeling of privacy in my plastic cocoon.


Now I’m headed back to Vietnam, the central area of the country this time. Rock-Awn 3.0!

Happily Ever After

After a day of flying, I arrive in India for my friend Raman’s wedding. Last August her parents arranged for her to marry Gurvinder and since then they have had the chance to get to know one another. Now it appears to be the best case scenario: a combo arranged/love marriage.

My driver pulls up to Raman’s family home about 10:30pm and I step into an ecstatic dance party. Raman tells me that they have had a day of ceremonies and have been dancing since 7:00. The music is so loud that my eardrums are rattling and every so often the men throw money into the air, making it rain. Raman’s friend uses a cone of henna to paint my right hand. Raman has beautifully intricate henna up to her elbows and ankles. Tradition says that the darker it is the more her mother-in-law will like her, so she’s been treating it with care.


Saturday morning the second my eyes open I’m delivered a cup of chai and plate of sweets. I could get used to this. Today is the day of ceremonies put on by the groom’s family. Raman stays at home while the rest of us don our custom dresses and have a makeup party like the ones I missed out on in high school.


We arrive bearing gifts of fruit, clothing, and sweets, then Gurvinder is ceremoniously given money by each of Raman’s family members. There’s eating, eating, and more eating, some dancing, and eating again.


A flock of Raman’s aunties have taken me under their wings and they are taking this job seriously. I am either eating or being led somewhere to fill my plate. I have made a special connection with one auntie in particular. She is deaf and non-verbal, so she has never relied on Punjabi, making it much easier and more natural for her to gesture communication with me.


With belly aches we go home. All afternoon the women sit on a bed in the living room, their legs tucked under a shared blanket. They tell Raman stories about the day and her new in-laws. She hasn’t met them yet.

Here there are no clocks, watches, or strict time schedules; a refreshing change from my time-slave western culture. In the evening, when everyone arrives the ‘Bangle Ceremony’ begins. Raman has been dreaming of wearing wedding bangles since she was 10 years old. Her mother’s brothers bless the bangles and carefully guide them onto her wrists. Here they will stay until she has her first baby, though in modern times it’s usually more like 6 weeks.

With anticipation everyone goes to bed. The house is like a big family slumber party. There are mats all over the floor and must be at least 25 people sleeping here. There is 1 bathroom. Amazingly, this does not seem to be a problem at all. Just imagine 25 people getting ready for a Canadian wedding with 1 bathroom. Here it is somehow seamless.

Remember when I said that time isn’t important here? The glaring exception is the wedding morning. At precisely 5am a parade of women wake Raman. They sing as she washes herself, then later she is swept away to the beauty parlour.

I dress in my second custom Indian gown. I start to think that maybe I don’t stand out so much; after all I have tanned skin with dark hair and eyes. One of the housekeepers says something to me in Punjabi and a cousin translates, “She says you look like a boy.” Oh, that. They likely have never seen a woman with short hair before.


We caravan to the wedding and, big surprise, we eat. Raman arrives and I cannot take my eyes off of this exquisite Indian princess. 


Gurvinder and his family are led in by a marching band. There are a series of steps and ceremonies and everything is lost in translation for me. But I don’t need to understand the words when I can feel the emotions: anticipation, excitement, joy, love.


After hours of photos, ceremonies, and eating, the energy palpably changes. It feels somber and sad. At Canadian weddings I am used to a union of 2 families, but in India it is starkly different. Raman is leaving her family to join Gurvinder’s. Her suitcases are delivered to his family and her family files through a receiving line of tear filled goodbyes.

Attending an Indian wedding is an experience that makes the highlight reel of my life. The wedding was unforgettable, but some of my favourite memories will be some of the in between times:

– Watching a man skillfully wrap 7 meters of cloth into an expert turban.

– Raman reminiscing about summer nights her family spent sleeping on the rooftop under the stars.

– A cousin walking me around the village, then the eruption of laughter from the family when he told them the things I took pictures of.

– The special presentation of toilet paper in the bathroom when I arrived (and surprisingly I was not the only one using it!).

– Raman’s Grandfather specifically finding me to gently gesture the importance of covering my head in the temple.

– The warmth and kindness I felt from Raman’s family.

Now I’m being spoiled rotten by Raman’s family for a couple more days until my flight to Singapore!

Namaste India

For my last India post, I thought I would write a haiku and post pics!
So far am loving Pokhara, Nepal with a pretty sleepy robO!

Dirty, hot, chaos
Rickshaws, cows, cars share the streets
And yet I feel peace.

Well played, old man

I guess I could compare my Taj Mahal experience with my Machu Pichu experience – no matter how many pictures you see in advance, the real deal is truly magical. Wow. The only thing missing was robO (countdown 1 day)!
I got up early to see the Taj at sunrise. Highly recommended as for about the first half hour the fountains aren’t on so I could get some pretty good reflection pictures. Of course I also got a quintessential Princess Di pic on the bench!
Next I walked to Agra Fort, which was also very photogenic. On the walk there I also had the chance to see some burning ghats (maybe ‘chance’ isn’t quite the right word).
Finally I made my way to the ‘Baby Taj’, smaller but much more intricately decorated than the Taj.

I consider myself to be quite a determined and ‘directive’ traveller in that I bargain pretty hard and think I’m pretty good at holding my own against crafty touts (if you want proof, ask robO to tell you the story of when I almost jumped out of a cab in Suriname over $5). But these Agra guys are ‘careers’. I have to give them credit.
This afternoon I was headed toward my hotel and this old man on a cycle rickshaw comes along and says he’ll take me there for 5 rupees (10 cents). Knowing this to be a little too good to be true, I questioned him, to which he gave me the puppy dog eyes and said “any trip is worth it for me”. I decided to do it, with the intention of paying him what I thought it would be worth (50 rupees or $1). On the way he tells me his plan: we stop at 3 shops along the way. At each one he receives a commission of 20 rupees just for bringing in a whitey (no matter if I buy or not). A proposed win-win I suppose. I had to admire his ingenuity and at least he told me what he was up to, so I shook on the deal! I couldn’t even be mad when he dropped me off at a spot about a kilometre short of my intended location. Well played, old man!

I could provide more examples of their schemes, but no need – nothing was lost for me, and they’re eeking out their living however they can.
I spent the late afternoon at a rooftop restaurant enjoying the sunset view of the Taj.

Tomorrow I head back to Delhi to meet robO Monday morning!
Here’s the photo frenzy…

Teaser photos

Here I am in Agra (city where the Taj Mahal is). The course finished at noon today, then I took the train from Delhi to Agra. Much better than my first Indian rail experience 3 years ago (hints: don’t go at night and book tickets in advance!).
My first impression of Agra is that it is crazy busy. Pretty much like downtown Delhi, but maybe with windier streets. I met a couple from Vancouver at my hotel tonight, so enjoyed chatting and sharing travel tales. Thank god I am out of Noida, where I was probably the only tourist within 5kms. Made for long evenings and nights in my sketchy guesthouse!
Some photos:
– the awesome women’s only berths on the metro in Delhi
– a guy at the train station who fixes zippers on suitcases. Why don’t we have these guys around all transportation hubs at home??
– a couple random shots
…drumroll please…
– my first view of the Taj from the rooftop restaurant at my hotel. I’m going to see it at sunrise tomorrow!

RobO starts his journey to meet me today! Can’t wait!

Course – day 1

Wow. There are a lot of very interesting topics being discussed here. I already have a list of things to bring back to work, and it’s only halfway through day 1! Hopefully I’m able to retain the excitement after 3 weeks in Nepal!
I have attached some pictures from the grand welcome dinner last night.

I want to share a story from this morning that really brought me to tears. As many of you know, I am doing the dawnO unconventional travelling method and staying in a guesthouse that is not part of the conference. This means I am responsible for finding my own transportation to and from the conference (about 15 minutes by auto rickshaw). This morning I was trying to explain where I needed to go to a non-English speaking driver. Of course, a crowd of people trying to help arose. It was about 5 minutes later when a man with some English skills came along and took charge of the situation. What was heartwarming wasn’t just his willingness to help, but that he went above and beyond. He wrote down the autorickshaw number and had the driver provide his cell phone number (which he actually tested by calling it) to ensure my safe delivery, as well as ensuring that I would be paying Indian (rather than my typical ‘white person’) fare. Another thank you to the kind hearted indian people.

…postscript for the moms: I wasn’t in a really unsafe predicament (I travelled this route yesterday and was very comfortable).

pps from RobO-  This is our 100th blog!!

A potter’s dream

Today was a pleasant surprise. I didn’t have much planned, other than transferring my self and my stuff to Noida, a superb of Delhi. I decided to spend the morning exploring around the hotel. Turns out that mere blocks from my room is my kind of travelling paradise! Lots of street food, fresh coconuts to drink, and great shopping, while still having cows, rickshaws, tut tuts, and cars manoeuvring through the narrow streets.
I found my dream shop – a whole shop of carved wooden stamps! Perfect for pottery! I resisted the urge to buy more indian clothing (so tempting here, but it really doesn’t transfer well to home culture).
I then took a series of public transport (metro, bus, rickshaw) to my new guesthouse. This is the real India. It’s pretty clean and seems safe, but I can see why it costs about $16 a night. Home, sweet home. I love it!
Now I’m at the conference center where they’re prepping for the opening ceremonies and welcome dinner. It looks like it will be fancier than a wedding.
I’ll attach some streets of India pictures today!

Delhi

I really hit the ground running in India! After 36 hours of travel (door to door) I had a pretty good first night’s sleep in my pretty nice hotel.
This morning I got up and started to explore! A very friendly and helpful gentleman sent me to ‘Connaught Place’ in a rickshaw. It’s pretty much tourist-ville, except on Sundays when everything is closed! A bit of a miss. I then made my way on foot to the Red Fort, followed by some exploration one one of the crazy shopping streets. Feeling the need to relax and avoid the honking busy roads, I took the metro to the Lotus Temple, which is one of 7 Ba’hai temples in the world (hope Caitlin reads this!). Wow, is it beautiful. I spent most of the afternoon there and in a neighbouring park.
Some highlights thus far..
– seeing someone on the street doing (and selling) Spirograph! I bought one immediately, without even bartering. Brought me back to my childhood!
– looking at henna stamps, then the lady starts stamping my whole left hand and forearm. I hope it’s not some crazy toxic dye. Anyway, I was a bit surprised and in shock so didn’t stop her. Then when she started on my right hand too I just succumbed to the pressure (and the rupee provision).
– not really a highlight, but I’ve had at least 20 people wanting to take my picture. I’ve said no to all but one little girl.
– the really helpful Indian people. They really are. Some of them I could tell have an ulterior motive, but for the most part I find them to be genuinely kind. For example, I had a crowd of people around me and my map trying to help figure out directions.

Tomorrow I head to the superb of Noida, where my course is being held.

Home

many of you will be surprised to learn that we’re home. like, medicine hat home. robO had some pretty significant medical issues in india (not related to being in india) and thus we needed to come home for further medical attention. disappointed? yes. necessary? yes.


robO's favorite nurse, Sreejith

sometimes things don’t happen how we hope and imagine that they would. but we really saw the generosity and compassion of the people of india. there were many people who we barely knew who went out of their way to make this stressful situation smoother than it could have been. i am especially grateful to my forever friends, Ganesh and Anu.
we will definitely return to india one day.
i’ll leave you with some more photos from the Mysore area.
Chilies at the market Bird tree One of my favorite activities Kirtan
School bus - taken for RobO South Indian Thali

Yoga’s Lessons

I am almost finished at the Ashtanga Yoga Research Institute so thought it deserved a blog of it’s own, given that it was my primary activity for the month.
My profile before arrival:
– able to do about the first half of the primary series, with modifications
– an irregular practise
– consistently tight right hip
Flying high: As with anything new, my first week or so at the shala was really exciting. Adrenaline pumping I was learning all of the specific details of the practise and poses.
Ego Driven: As I improved, I started to view my practise almost like a conquest – maybe I could do all of the poses in the primary series. How cool would that be? I started to push my body.
No Surprise: My body started to show the effects of me forcing it – knee pain from my tight right hip. This resulted in a regression – I couldn’t do some of the poses I was able to do at home. Still ego driven, I started to think about how I could ‘fix’ this – a massage? meditation?
The ‘Aha’ Moment: A sudden thought: How would my life change is I got straight A’s on my yoga report card? What matters most is feeling good during and after practise, both mind and body. I started focussing on compassion and mindfulness in my body. My intention became to smile at myself on the mat, in the mirror, in life.
The Gift: I improved my ability to explore and experience myself through yoga and to cultivate balance. I realized that a life gets crazy, my mat can be my safe place; a place to recharge and connect with something bigger than myself as a source of strength and balance.
My profile after 1 month:
– able to do about the first half of the primary series with a smile on my face
– consistent, daily practise
– a tight right hip which is gradually opening over time
– confirmed and changed appreciation for yoga and life
As Pattabhi Jois said, “Do your practise and all is coming”. I think he was right.
Shoes outside the shala door Me and Sharath, the teacher
Pattabhi Jois Listening to Shirath's conference on Sunday afternoons