My hike ended in a town called Kii-Katsuura, which is famous for its hot springs and tuna. I went to the largest tuna market in Japan and it blew my mind that this many fish are auctioned off every morning.
There are numerous free foot soaks around the town and it was delightful to sit with my feet in hot springs water while people watching one afternoon.
Where I live the only tuna I get to eat is out of a tin can, so I made sure to get my fill of fresh tuna. For supper I went to a tiny ma&pa shop with great reviews. Another specialty here is rice balls wrapped in pickled mustard leaves, which was part of my set meal.
Getting my breakfast tuna felt like an Amazing Race experience. Outside of the tuna auction the market sells only 20 set meals for breakfast. It was lined up and there was definitely some sketchy queue behaviour going on so I started out 14th in line but was closer to 18th when the doors opened. There were 2 automatic machines that we had to run to and punch in our orders. I was at a severe disadvantage as the machine was mostly in Japanese. Somehow I managed to figure it out and get my tuna bowl. It is now officially my ‘death row meal’. I will dream about this tuna for years I’m sure.
I made my way via 3 trains, a cable car, and a bus to the World Heritage Site of Koyasan. Since the year 806 this mountain town has been the central hub of teachings of Shingon Buddhism and has 117 temples dedicated to teaching these Esoteric Buddhist traditions.
I was in awe of the spruce trees, many of which are 800 years old. I also met an umbrella cherry tree that was planted 600 years ago.
The monk who brought Shingon Buddhism to Japan was named Kobo Daishi and his Mausoleum is at the end of a 2km long cemetery that is the most memorable cemetery that I’ve visited.
It is a thing to go to the cemetery at night. The night I went was rainy and foggy, which made it capital F Freaky! At one point an owl started hooting and I decided it was time to get outta there.
There are 52 temples that offer lodging to visitors. I stayed 2 nights in one of the oldest, called Shojoshinin. Each morning I could attend the morning chanting ceremony and one day I participated in a ‘holy fire ritual’. I was given a wooden ‘goma-ki’ on which to write a wish. During the ceremony I placed it in the fire, where it is said that ‘your troubles and disasters will be burnt down, leaving peace and happiness in the world, and making your dreams come true’.
At the temple they serve guests the same meals that the monks receive, which is a called Shoujin Ryouri. According to my guide, ‘this elaborate vegetarian cuisine incorporates authentic preparation of the five flavours, colours, and seasonal delights which are not only good for the body, but for the mind and soul as well’. I found the food to be delicious apart from a few textures that my mouth rejected!
I’m thankful that I’ve had the chance to spend time in such a special, sacred place. I hope to carry some of the simplicity and peacefulness with me as I continue my travels. Next (and final) stop: South Korea!
