Alhambra and Graffiti Streets

We keep visiting these historic landmarks and we are beginning to see a pattern in their histories.  Each place’s story has some combination of the following occurrences:  If it was not built by Romans, it was most likely conquered by Romans, the Christans/Catholics take over and add their own flare to it (usually this cheapens the original), throw in some mass murder, maybe the area is abandoned for a century or two, Napoleon probably conquered it, more murder, eventually things get unearthed/restored, and when it’s all said and done you can avoid long lines if you buy your tickets online for a few Euro extra.  Obviously that is a gross over simplification of what are very significant and rich histories, but I don’t think the point of this blog is to tell you what you could read in a guide book.  I hope that we give you a taste of what we have experienced in order to inspire you to visit these places yourselves.

With that in mind, yesterday DawnO and I went to the Alhambra, one of the most visited spots in Europe.  Though it has nothing to do with Romans, this Arabic palace/fort was conquered by the Christians who believed it was so beautiful, they could not destroy it.  Over simplification?  Yup.  I’ll let the pictures tell the story.
The Alhambra:
Inside the Palicios Nazaries:

Views from the Fort:

Notable favourites:

We are staying in the heart of Granada in an apartment where we are close to everything.  One of the highlights of this city is all the amazing graffiti that is on display.  Today we did a walking tour of the most impressive works of street art.

Tomorrow we are heading to Madrid.  It will be my last stop before heading back home to Canada.  DawnO still has a couple of weeks to spend in the UK before she comes back home.

I will leave you with a picture of DawnO’s churros that she had today.  They are basically fresh doughnut-like sticks born from a play-dough fun factory.  They are then dipped into the provided cup of steaming hot liquid chocolate…  and are consumed with a shit-eating grin.

Something old, something new…

Here are 2 of my favourite buildings that we explored in Seville. The first is Alcázar, which is a palace built in the 1300s. It was there that I officially fell in love with patterned tiles. RobO pretty much had to drag me out of the room with the archways at closing time.

 

We also had a daytime and a nighttime visit to the Metropol Parasol, which was built in 2011. This is supposedly the largest wooden building in the world.
Finally, it would be irresponsible to blog about Seville without talking about the food! We ate well every day (albeit with dinner starting at 9:00 or later) and their gluten free options were top notch. I had one of the best meals of my life which included something they called ‘bags of goat cheese’ (goat cheese wrapped in filo pastry, fried, then drizzled with balsamic reduction). The dessert was ‘fried milk’, which tasted like creme brûlée wrapped in filo pastry and topped with mint leaves. RobO didn’t do too bad either with prosciutto wrapped asparagus and Iberian ham topped potatoes.
Our picnic spot for lunch one day:

 

We are currently in Granada and have tickets to the Alhambra tomorrow. Get ready for some more archway pictures!!

Seville, or: The continuing search for our place

We have found DawnO’s place.  Allow me to explain.  We have a reoccurring conversation every time we arrive somewhere new.  We try to determine if the current place we are in is somewhere that feels like a home away from home to either one of us.  To be fair, I think almost every place we have been to on this particular trip has been noted as her place, but we seem to be getting closer to DawnO perfection as we go. I admit, Seville is certainly a beautiful corner of the world.

We have been here for 4 days and have made use of the bikes that came with our latest place to stay.  We go out exploring in the morning, come back in the afternoon when the temperature reaches 40 degrees C, and we head out again in the evening time once the sun starts to make its decent.  Here are a few pics of our time in Seville.

This is my bike ‘Mustachio’, Dawn’s is ‘El Rocket Rojo’ (the Red Rocket)

Here I set a world land speed record on Mustachio.  No officials were present to confirm this.

DawnO going not-quite-as-fast-as-I-did-but-still-swiftly at Plaza de España.

Seville is the birthplace of Flamenco.  We took in a show the other night and got a front row seat.

Last night we headed across the river to Triana, which is only a 10 minute ride from our place.  Every night this week there is a party along the river where locals drink cervesas, listen to live music, and party like it’s 1999.  We saw the fiesta from the impressive bridge we took pant loads of pictures of.  We preferred the bridge.

La fiesta

So where is my place?  As long as DawnO is there it doesn’t much matter.  Also, there needs to be access to Nachos and guacamole.
Here is a parting shot of us at a spot DawnO will talk about in our next blog:

Black Madonna: Like a virgin??

Yesterday we arrived in the medieval village of Collbató. We’re staying in the top floor of a house with this view:

Today we hiked to the Montserrat Monastery, which was our prime reason for coming here. This monastery was built in the 1800s and hangs off of the side of the mountain. It’s the 2nd most religious site in Spain after Santiago de Compostella. Seeing as I’ve visited Santiago and the Vatican on this trip I thought I should make it a triple!
I didn’t realize that the hike from Collbató to the monastery is actually a pilgrimage like the Camino. It was exciting to see scallop shells and follow yellow arrows again.
RobO and I enjoyed the views, the ride up the funicular, and the ice cream treats after the hike. We also stood in line to see the famous ‘Black Madonna’. The monastery was built in this location because shepherds saw a vision of a Black Madonna here. I guess you’re supposed to thank her for the good things in your life. For example, the Barcelona FC football team dedicates their wins to her. I had no problem thinking of things I’m thankful for!
RobO was disappointed he couldn’t bring his unicorn on the hike:
Tomorrow we’re flying south to Seville. Temperatures are in the 40s there, so I imagine we’ll be siesta-ing like the locals!

Tarragona

We have left the big city of Barcelona for Tarragona, which has been a change in pace.  Tarragona is a smaller coastal town that once was the Roman capital on this side of the Balearic Sea.  It has plenty of beaches, outdoor patios, gelatarias, and history in the form of Roman ruins.

Our place is very charming.  We are staying right across from the cathedral, whichs means it’s close to the action.  We have been getting used to the Spanish timetable of resting in the afternoon and eating at 9 at night.  As a rookie, I have gotten into a bit of trouble when I start sipping sweet Sangria on an empty stomach at 9:30pm.  Now I take a few bites of food prior to drinking the sweet nectar.

The cathedral

My rookie campaign.

We increasingly find that timing is an integral part of the highs and lows of travel.  Last night we happened upon a group of performers creating a human tower.  We had seen a sculpture of this on the main Boulevard and it was quite thrilling to watch it happen from a crowd.  They did about 5 different towers, and it was quite a well organized process.  Each one required coaching and specific placing of key people.  There was a section of the group that played music while they climbed. It was one of those things that we could have easily missed had we arrived five minutes later.

Tomorrow we head to the Montserrat area for some hiking and Sangria!

Revisiting childhood: Ferris wheels, bikes, and Golden Arches

As RobO reported in our last blog, our visit to Barcelona has been a Gaudí bonanza! Today we cycled to another Gaudí site, this one a famous gate sculpted like a dragon.

Outside of all of the architectural siteseeing we have had a lot of time to explore other parts of Barcelona. We’ve hit our travel groove: sleeping in, then having full days of exploring and good food! Here are some of the highlights:
– the Arch de Triumph (here it’s made of brick)
– Tibidabo (church and amusement park with amazing city views)
– renting bikes to cycle the length of the beach
– the ‘Dilding’ (Who do you think came up with that name? Hint: it’s the same person who’s been begging me to call it that on the blog!)
Random exploration in old town
As mentioned, the food has been incredible. Spain is ahead of the curve in awareness of gluten free. We enjoyed ‘pinchos’ (2-3 bite snacks chosen buffet-style) one night on a patio. The bar made all of Rob’s selections gluten free. It was extra cool that different street performers came along to entertain us.
I don’t know if this is a blessing or a curse, but even McDonalds has gluten free in Spain! RobO has been waiting almost 10 years for this taste of a Big Mac. Talk about a happy meal! He reports that it was good but he is ok with waiting another 10 years until the next one!
In conclusion Barcelona has lived up to it’s high expectations! We’re looking forward to tomorrow’s trip to another coastal city called Tarragona. It’s a smaller city where many Spanish go to holiday. I’m sure we’ll have lots to blog about!

Oh My Gaudí

We have arrived in Barcelona and have spent the last few days exploring this beautiful city, enjoying the cuisine, and touring as many Gaudí structures as we can.  I’ll admit, I had never heard of Antoni Gaudí until a couple of days ago when DawnO said, “Are you freaking kidding me?  You’ve never heard of Gaudí?”  Anyway, for you cotton-headed ninny mugginses like myself who have no idea who this guy is, allow me to explain what I’ve learned so far.  He was an architect genius in the 19th century who was a student of nature and incorporated what he learned into his architecture. He proved that his structures could be functional, efficient, and works of art, all at once.  He had the support of a few well-off friends who allowed him to have free reign over his creations.  His eye for detail and his brilliant mind helped create some of the most elegant structures in the world. We have been going absolutely crazy with touring all of his buildings, and here is what we have seen so far:

Palau Güell
This home was built for the Güell family, the patriarch was one of his greatest supporters and friends.
Casa Batiló
This home was renovated by Gaudí to feel as if the family lived under water.
La Padrera
This apartment building was originally panned by critics of the time because it was quite strange.  It features underground parking which was unheard of at the time.  There are people living in this building today.
Casa Vicens
This house isn’t open for tours so I don’t know too much about it.  We could see that they are currently renovating the building.  Hopefully they are restoring it.
Park Güell
This green space was meant to be part of a residential area.  Unfortunately the residential area part didn’t work out as planned.
Sagrada Familia
Gaudí’s ‘Ode to Joy’. He started as the chief architect for this massive undertaking in 1883. Unfortunately he died in 1926 after being hit by a street car so the project was sidelined.  The city is currently trying to assemble his vision but estimate 2040 as a potential completion date.
Gaudì was a master at controlling the amount of natural light he let enter each building.  In the Sagrada Familia he perfected it by using stained glass to create a beautiful atmosphere of colour.
We got to go up one of the towers and this was our view of Barcelona

Hallelujah

I have officially completed 901kms on foot! Today I walked the final 28kms to Muxia (pronounced moo-SHE-ah). This seaside fishing town is best known for its church built on the rocky shore. (Spoiler alert) If you watched the film ‘The Way’, this is the church where the dad spread the son’s ashes at the end of the film.

Interestingly the church was struck by lightning on Christmas Day in 2013, but has been pretty much rebuilt since then. Coincidence? I think not.
Thinking back over the Camino, it has been an incredible, uplifting, humbling, growing experience. My friend Marco said it best when he said,”It costs a lot; Not in terms of money, but in time, privacy, dedication, physical and emotional energy. But anyone can do it!”.
The best thing about the Camino is that it transcends culture, race, religion, age, and language and just becomes people supporting each other in a common direction. I think the world would be a very different place is all political leaders had to walk the Camino prior to being sworn into office.
I have one more day here, then I fly to Rome for my RobO reunion. Stay tuned for more blog posts. Possible upcoming titles: “Absence makes the heart grow fonder” or “Olson Rome-mance”!
TTSOL

It’s the end of the world as we know it…

Yesterday I arrived on foot to Finisterre, which literally means ‘the end of the earth’ in Spanish. Ancient pilgrims really believed that they were staring out to an empty ocean.

I walked alone for the 3 days leading up to arriving here, which was different but nice. Having this time alone time gave me the chance to really process this journey. I definitely realized that I had a much richer experience when sharing my days with great friends.

Our group reunited here in Finisterre and had the chance to walk to the lighthouse, catch up with pilgrims we hadn’t seen for days or weeks, and enjoy a seafood feast! There was a celebration on the beach where the Spanish were cooking over huge bonfires. We sat for a long time drinking wine and sharing memories. My friends are ‘retired pilgrims’ now, whereas I am getting up tomorrow to walk again! I’m making one last journey to Muxia before I meet RobO in Rome.
Leaving Santiago at sunrise.
First glimpse of the sea!
The remains of the feast!
TTSOL (To The Spirit of Life)

“Not all those who wander are lost.” -Tolkien

Yesterday we walked the final 20km to arrive in Santiago. The most meaningful moment for me was our first sight of the cathedral from about 5 kilometres away. There’s a monument there, but it’s off the trail so many pilgrims don’t visit it. That meant our group of 4 were there alone to celebrate the moment. This was a welcome change from the bus loads of pilgrims we were seeing over the past couple of days. In the 2nd picture you can see the 2 spires of the famous cathedral in the distance!

Once in Santiago we received our official Compostella for walking the Camino. We attended the 7:30 mass, where we had the lucky chance to see the famous ‘botafumeiro’. This is a big urn-looking this that swings from the ceiling to spread incense smoke throughout the cathedral. It’s so big it takes 8 men to get it swinging and it gets up to 80 kilometres per hour! Originally it was used to cover the stench of the stinky pilgrims, but now it’s more symbolic (I’ve done laundry every day, I swear!).
This morning was a tough morning for me. I decided to stay an extra night in Santiago as I have a more relaxed timeline than my group. So I slept in while they got up to walk again. I actually woke up before they left, but couldn’t bear to open my eyes to say goodbye. We’ve spent 24 hours per day together for the past 30 days! The saving grace is that I will meet them in Finisterre in 3 days for a final goodbye (until I can meet Marco and John in Rome!).
Today was a nice day to explore the city. I went to the Parador, which was originally built as a pilgrim hospital, but now is a ritzy hotel. In keeping with history they still serve free meals to the first 10 pilgrims who arrive at 9am, noon, and 7pm. Surprisingly there were only 3 of us who took advantage of today’s breakfast!
Where breakfast is served! Just kidding, we actually had to go right into the kitchen to pick up a tray to take into a dungeon-y area of the hotel. Who cares! Free is free!
I was especially excited to be reunited with pilgrims who completed their journey today. Some of these people made a big impact on my journey and I expected I would never see them again.
Then I met up with 3 Spanish and 2 Italian friends for lunch before returning to my Alburgue. A pilgrim’s afternoon is full with laundry, filling water, buying snacks, etc. in preparation for tomorrow’s journey. I’m starting the extra 121kms to Finisterre and Muxia.
Buen Camino!