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Bonita Burgos

We are almost at the halfway point! So far my body is holding up very well. My feet are sore by the end of the day, but I think that’s to be expected. My shoes, on the other hand, are looking pretty injured!

Yesterday we had a short day (15km) so that we could spend some time in the larger city of Burgos. It has the 2nd largest cathedral in Spain and is a beautiful city. It was wonderful to explore and eat some really great pinchos (similar to tapas) for lunch, followed by an awesome dinner of smoked salmon and sea worms (totally weird but really tasty).

The coolest thing about the shorter day was that we met up with many pilgrims that we haven’t seen for a couple of days. It’s such a nice little reunion to reconnect and find out how their journeys are going.
Today we entered the Meseta, which is kind of like the prairies back home. It’s supposed to be one of the hardest sections on the brain, just because it’s so hot and flat. We have about 6 days of this until we reach Leon. So far so good for me!
Last but not least, lunch and dinner!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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And I would walk 500 miles…

I am in the Camino rhythm now. It feels very normal to get up every day and walk between 20 and 40 kilometres, stopping for a chocolate croissant for breakfast and a beer and a sandwich for lunch. We leapfrog with pilgrims along the route and usually see the same people every couple of nights. When we arrive at the Alburgue I shower, do laundry, relax, do yoga, then go for a ‘pilgrim dinner’, which is usually a 3 course meal that includes bread and wine. Finally I collapse into my bunk bed and pray that nobody around me is a ‘roncador’ (snorer)!

Yesterday we walked just shy of a marathon to catch up and say a final goodbye to our Uruguy friend. It was a long, hot day, but worth it to sleep in an old church, share a meal with all of the pilgrims there, and attend an evening meditation. Being a pilgrim definitely feels like being a part of a big family.
The pictures are worth 1000 words!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I drank from the fountain of…

Wine!!!

Yesterday’s hike included something that I had been looking forward to. We are in wine country, so as the path travels past a winery they have installed a fountain that dispenses (for free) water and wine! There is a webcam that you can check out if you’re interested in seeing thirsty pilgrims in action: www.irache.com
The scenery has continued to be beautiful along the way. We are in Viana, which means we have walked about 154km in the past 6 days. We’ve averaged 25km per day, so we’re right on track. Tonight I am very excited because we got a room with only 4 beds and none of us snore. I’m really dying for a snore-free night. Last night was the worst yet with 2 lawnmower men in the room.
The view from our alburgue last night.
We had to say goodbye to a couple Camino friends – Javier and Hugo from Uruguay (2nd from the left and 2nd from the right). They are a father/son team who had to fly home. They definitely played a huge role in my first week of the Camino, mostly with how much wine I drank!!
I am so lucky to have this experience thus far! Buen Camino!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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We are one

I wasn’t intending to blog today, but it was such a special day I feel like I’m going to burst with positivity. In the morning we passed Alto de Perdon, which is a high point on the path where there are many windmills. The energy company has erected a statue of medieval pilgrims walking. I think it is impossible not to feel connected to something bigger.

We had lunch at a city called Puente la Reina, where there is a famous bridge.
I think the pictures speak for themselves…
We’re in wine country now, so salut (cheers)!
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Buen Camino

The Camino runs like a well oiled machine! There are Alburgues all along the way where pilgrims sleep and eat for cheap. Every night it is like a meeting of the UN – people from all different countries hang out to eat, drink, and share tales. Last night, for example, there were 6 bunk beds in the room (12 beds total), and we had pilgrims from Cuba, Holland, Italy, Poland, Israel, Spain, USA, and, of course, Canada! It kind of feels like dorms for open minded people who like exercise!

4 years ago RobO and I were in Holland and we ate with a large group of people from different European countries. Everyone seemed to be able to speak to each other in their different languages (French, Italian, German, Spanish, Dutch) but they always had to ‘dumb it down’ to English for us. It was at that moment that we committed to learning another language. I am really appreciating my decision now! My Camino friends and I have been speaking only in Spanish as it is a 2nd language for each of us.
Today we went through Pamplona, the city famous for the running of the bulls. We had been talking about ‘pinchas’, which are small snacks kind of like tapas and stopped for lunch at a bar for some pinchas and vino. This is the life! The only thing missing is RobO!
It’s been quite cloudy and a bit chilly, but tomorrow we should see some sun!
Buen Camino!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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1 down, 34 to go!

My title is referring to days on the Camino (not that I’m counting down)! Today we covered 24.7km and it was one of the hardest sections as we walked from France over the Pyranees mountains into Spain. It started out foggy with the sun breaking through, but at the highest altitude it was sleeting at one point. If not for a well placed pilgrim’s shelter I may have been permanently blue (my lips and fingernails turn blue when I get cold).

I say ‘we’ because I have pilgrim friends! The 2 guys that helped me find a place to stay last night were waiting for me outside of the hostel this morning, so we became a group! Maciej is from Poland and Marco is Italian. Maciej’s pack weighs 14kg because he’s been researching for years and has 2 of everything just in case (boots, headlamps, etc.)! It was really nice to have companions to look after each others’ belongings, share a clothes dryer or bottle of wine, and give each other company and support along the way. We kept up a pretty good pace and arrived to the Pilgrim hostel before 3:00.
During the times that we weren’t fogged in it felt like we were walking through a painting. Check out the pics!

 

Off to rest my weary bones!

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I see London, I see France…

I’m in St. Jean Pied-de-Pont, all set to start the Camino de Santiago tomorrow!

I flew into London yesterday and had a great visit with my friend Janice and her family. They live in Gravesend, which is just southeast of London. We went for a run in the countryside and apple orchards, the had dinner at a country pub. I really love the UK.
Today I flew to France and took a shuttle to this Camino starting point. It is much busier than I expected and I had some trouble finding a pilgrim hostel. Thankfully I teamed up with 2 people from my shuttle and we divided and conquered to find a place. Of course we went out for dinner and wine to celebrate! Looks like the start of a Camino friendship to me!
Buen Camino!