La Belle Ville

The past few days we have been doing what we do best: imagining that we live here.  For the week we rented a small studio apartment right in the heart of old town.  We shop at the markets, have a drink in the neighbourhood cafes, and picnic in the parks.  Most mornings have been spent sleeping in then doing some form of exercise (me) or catching up on computer/tv time (robO).  We have filled our afternoons with a variety of activities: exploring the city, tennis, reading on the boardwalk, and people watching.  Our major decision each day revolves around where we’re going to eat dinner (and, of course, if we’re going to have gelato).  It has been the perfect blend of down time and excitement, which I’ve coined ‘relaction’!

Friday night we decided to follow the old rule of “fool me once…” and bought VIP tickets to ensure our entry into the ‘free’ Cirque de Soleil show.  It definitely helped that we also weren’t standing in the family-only line.  What a show.  I’ve seen Cirques in a few different places, but there was something really special about watching the outdoor show amongst the silhouettes of the old town.
Today is my 35th birthday, and I’ve spent the day doing all the things that make my heart smile: waking up in a Murphy bed with robO, a morning yoga practice, rollerblading on the Plains of Abraham (currently vying for my favorite activity of this lifetime), poutine, an ass-kicking tennis game (guess my husband doesn’t let me win because it’s my birthday), and dinner at a ‘bring your own wine’ Indian restaurant.  We closed out the night with live music in the park and fireworks over the St. Lawrence.  I don’t think it can get much better than this!
We’re on our way home tomorrow.  This fall we have a few trips in the queue, so stay tuned for more updates…

Québlog

   Hello all three of you and welcome to the second instalment of our Québec City vacation blog.  I guess it is my turn to fill you in on what we have been up to since DawnO’s last post.  First of all I feel a burning desire to explain something to you.  I am NOT a Celine Dion fan.  My love for her could not move mountains.  If she decides to call it quits tomorrow I am quite certain that my heart will go on.  However, I do appreciate the fact that she is a world class talent and respect her enough to sit on the side of a grassy hill and listen to her sing a tune for free.  Consider the matter clarified.

  The day after the concert we decided to find a tennis court to play on.  If you can believe it we actually brought luggage that we had to check (roller blades, tennis rackets, books).  We thought it would be a good idea to walk to Laval University, play tennis, and then take the bus back home.  It didn’t look too unreasonable on the map… we need to smarten up.  After DawnO kicked my tired ass all over the court we headed out for crépes.
  Yesterday DawnO planned a superdate which involved a trip to the Île d’Orléans.  It’s an island located in the mouth of the St. Lawrence river that is connected by a bridge to Québec City.  We rented bikes and rode around the island stopping at cool shops and fruit stands along the way.  Afterwards we headed back to town for some pretty good Nachos.  
  Last night we tried to get into the “free” Cirque du Soleil performance but we were foiled because we were standing in the family line.  Also, most people had tickets that were given to them by the hotels they were staying at.  Once they let the ticket holders in you have a small chance of getting any leftover seats.  Since we did not have any children with us in the family line, we were hooped.  We ended up going to the waterfront to watch the image mill.  It’s a film the city projects on to the mill across the water.  They have speakers set up all along the docks where people can sit and watch the show.  It was pretty amazing how they used the entire mill to tell their story.
  Anyway, on to the pictures.  We’ll blog again soon!

It’s All Coming Back To Me Now

I love Quebec City this time just as much as I loved it 11 years ago.  Since my first visit here I have been struggling to put into words the magical feeling that this city evokes.  It’s the same feeling that I encountered when I visited Prague, London, and Edinburg.
Finally today I think I put my finger on it.  I was running on the Plains of Abraham this morning and noticed banners on all of the lamp posts.  Each post had 2 messages: one historical, and a related modern message.  The one that caught my attention had, on the left, a drawing of a cannon and the word ‘Battles’, while on the right, a depiction of the bandstand where they play live outdoor concerts with the message ‘Harmony’.
I think that the magic comes from this contrast of old and new.  This city (like the ones listed above and many others) is a canvas of centuries old architecture with a modern overlay.  It is a place where we see a McDonalds housed in a stone building, a busker stand in front of the Chateau Frontenac, and a light show broadcast on the face of an old mill.  It is not unusual to hear the tolling of church bells and the base beat from a club on the same block.  Cars patiently wait behind horse drawn carriages at stoplights hung on the archways of the old city wall.  We can feel the ghosts of where we came from as we create our futures.

Don’t let the stereotypes sway you; Quebec City is an easy place to travel.  It is a ‘walking city’, with much of the tourist draw in an area that can be manoeuvred on foot.  Moreover, the tourism industry of Quebec knows how to woo a visiter.  The old town area is packed with art galleries, artesian booths, gelato stands, street performers, benches with views, and essentially anything else one may desire. There are free events abound: outdoor concerts, Cirque de Soleil shows, and fireworks.

The language ‘barrier’ is a misnomer.  RobO and I have been speaking an awkward kind of Spanglish – too much ‘si’ in place of ‘oui’.  We’re like parents who holler out the name of every child before finding the right one.  “Hello… Hola… Bonjour”.  The people we’ve met have been accepting and accommodating, replying in whatever language we offer.

Yesterday was our first full day to explore.  We explored the oldtown around our condo (a wonderful studio suite right beside the Chateau Frontenac with (drumroll please) a Murphy bed!!), then made our way to the Plains of Abraham, rollerblades in tow.  This was the catalyst for this whole trip; I ‘bucket listed’ for Rob to experience this setting.  Under the proud and watchful eye of this old battleground, the city has laid a large track only for rollerbladers.  After working up an appetite, we headed for fresh poutine, followed by refreshing gelato.  Our evening included more city exploration and finished with an exclamation point: listening to Celine Dion’s outdoor concert from a grassy hill beside the Citadel.  (Note: the concert was not free for those in attendance, just for the thousand-odd group of us who sat one hill over!)

I’ll let RobO fill you in on today’s events in the next blog as this is getting rather long. So here’s some pictures!!