When I decided to walk the Camino Portuguese I knew that it would be different than my experience on the Camino Frances in 2015. Even though I know this, it’s still been very difficult for me not to be constantly comparing the two. The first 5 days have been challenging, both physically and mentally. I’ve been focusing on using this as an opportunity for growth. I’ve been trying to work on being present. Each time my mind brings me to the comparison of 4 years ago, I gently remind myself to focus on this moment.
I’ve only seen about 5 pilgrims per day, so I’ve been doing a lot of solitary walking. After a couple of hours my brain usually tires of the constant internal chatter and it becomes a kind of walking meditation; an opportunity to hear the sounds of the birds and my footsteps, to see the scenery, and to feel the sensations (unfortunately 2 days were the sensations of misty rain). There have been many stretches of road walking, sometimes on the ‘almost non existent’ shoulder of a busy highway. This has helped me to appreciate the times the path weaves through vineyards, farmers’ fields, and forest.
I’ve been trying to stay in the locations that are staffed by volunteers rather than private alburgues. I guess it’s kind of a ‘kindness of strangers’ type of experiment. I’ve stayed 2 nights in firehouses (the firefighters often let pilgrims stay for a donation), a church-run alburgue, and a hospital (it may have been a mental hospital). The variety and kindness has been wonderful.
I’ve developed some blisters on my right foot. For the record these aren’t dainty little things, but more like the sole of my foot is looking a bit like macaroni bologna.
Sorry for that visual. Unfortunately my strategy of doing nothing but walking 30+ kms per day and hoping that they’ll turn to calluses has been (surprisingly) ineffective. So on my rest stop in a town today I went to the local pharmacy hoping to get some of the products typical to all pharmacies in the world: maybe some sterile needles, antiseptic, bandaids, or tape. After explaining my problem the pharmacist shook her head that she could provide me with nothing to help. She then gave me this gesture.
I believe it is the universal sign for ‘suck it up’.
When I got to my next destination I made a decision that I believe shows my personal growth better than words can. I’ve taken an unscheduled rest day to give my foot a break. To be honest, this obvious sign of weakness has rocked my world a bit.
The saying is ‘the Camino provides’ and I’ve seen no better town to spend a ‘blister day’. Tomar has well stocked, friendly pharmacies and already my foot is looking and feeling a lot less angry. The Templars castle at the top of the hill is an attraction that I’m glad I didn’t miss.
I’m pretty sure I’m going to be able to walk tomorrow, but I’ve shortened my planned distance to ensure I don’t overdo it. Serindipidously I’ve heard that at my destination there is a volunteer run alburgue that also does yoga, meditation, and massages. It wasn’t in my guidebook, so another example of Camino magic.