Fès is known for having one of the oldest and most confusing medinas in Morocco. Though I love the Lonely Planet guidebooks, their maps of Fez need some work. RobO and I wandered around trying to find the Royal Palace and luckily came across some self guided tour signs, which helped immensely.
When we reached the doors of the palace it was well worth it.
RobO kept making jokes about how many pictures I took of the knockers.
Our Next stop on our little tour was the Jewish Cemetery and Synagogue, followed by the refreshing Bou Jeloud Gardens.
Feeling confident with our route markers, we explored the winding medina, seeing workshops where they’re carving wood, clanging out copper bowls, and etching amazing decorative patterns into silver wares. Though it is busy and maze-like, we found it so much better to manoeuvre than the one in Marrakech. We tried to barter for a few items (I say ‘tried’ because neither RobO nor I are very good at it). Here’s how it went:
Me (looking at 2 wooden carvings): How much for these?
Shop guy: 50 Dirhams each (about $5 US each)
Me: How about 80 Dirhams for both.
Shop guy: Now the price is 1000 Dirhams for both.
Me: (Completely bewildered. Like we’re not even on the same playing field anymore.) Ummm, never mind. (Then as I’m considering walking away) How about 100 Dirhams for both.
Shop guy: OK.
We pay, knowing that we actually didn’t barter at all.
I hoped to go to the oldest library in the world, but it’s currently undergoing a restoration, so we could only see the entrance.
I think I should have been a cultural anthropologist. I love seeing how different cultures actually live, not just what tourists see from the outside. This led me to try out going to a non tourist hammam, which was a culturally rich experience, to say the least! Women in Morocco are always very well covered in cloaks and head scarves, but it’s a different story in the hammam. Basically there are cavernous sauna like rooms filled with women wearing only panties who are washing themselves and each other while gossiping and occasionally yelling (I couldn’t figure out about what). I had to work up my courage to try this experience and overall my baby soft skin is glad that I did!
And, no, I did not take any pictures of any of those knockers.
We’ve continued our good eats; RobO having an average of 1.5 tagines per day, and me trying new stuff all the time.
Here’s a ‘splurge’ meal from a popular tourist Cafe. I had a plate of falafel, hummus, and tabouleh. RobO’s is a salad with capers, blue cheese, figs, and candied walnuts.
And this is pastille, which is a phyllo pastery stuffed with chicken, onion, and almonds. On top is a sprinkle of icing sugar and cinnamon. Sounds weird but it’s delicious!
We’re now in Amsterdam for 24 hours before our flight home. It’s so nice to catch up with our friend Jente and meet her growing family.
Next blog should be in the summertime when we plan to visit Poland and Berlin!
Looks like another amazing trip! Enjoyed all your blogs – gorgrous pictures and commentary. Thank you for sharing!